By Michael Jones // Photos by Matt Sims

(Choking Bliss)

Belchica, Café Belga-Catalan

Villarroel 60

Ok, I know guiris, and even tourists, seem to sniff this little love shack out, but still, I can’t go more than a couple months without jumping on this scene and hitting those beers. There’s something like thirty Belgian beers to choose from — I’m sweating a little just thinking about it. I hunker down at the bar and look over the drink menu, and it kind of gets me hot. If I’ve got the dough, I go with bottles of Duval (devil); if not, the draft triga or rubia are nice too, and easier on my wallet. It’s still early and almost quiet when I have my first, but I know these beers come on like a sledgehammer, and in this place, anything can happen. Sometimes it’s the football crowd, the English girls en masse, or just people drinking for somebody’s birthday. And then there are live shows in the back, ranging from more classical theater to ‘80s rump-shaking parties. I start chatting up the bar staff, who are hip yet aloof, and slightly confusing — waffling between excellent English, Spanish, French and maybe even the dreaded Flemish. With Michelle, the owner, at the bar passing me another liquid treat for testing and tasting, I’m not sure who’s drunker, what day it is or even what city I’m in. I’m in trouble now — the fear and evil leering is coming on, and the handful of innocent Belgian beers have taken hold like a mescaline tablet.

(Shut-Up!)

Marcelina-2000

Consejo de Ciento 236

I was drawn to it right away: barrels and that bodega feel, advertising simply “vino y pan” in one of the windows. This is what we call the nicer side of the old man bar. I take a big round table in the middle of everything and suck on a carajillo de cognac like it was a lollypop. The menu is of the more classic Spanish variety, but something doesn’t fit, as some plates are dirt-cheap and others are triple the price. Maybe the squid that’s on the expensive side is the size that drags men to their watery graves. I’m giddy here with its décor and realness. The best part is it’s Saturday afternoon and about six older gentlemen are at the bar drinking and crooning some songs that make me wonder who really deserved “the Rat Pack” title.

(Anywhere Affair)

Kimera

Mozart 16

Just on the fringes of Gràcia, while waiting for another place to open up, my partner in crime and I roam the streets looking for the right bar for a quick drink. After weaving through some oversized white balloons and crashing someone’s art expo, we find just the ticket: a place none-too-crowded with a long bar and a back room filled with simple tables. It’s dark enough, cheap enough, and it’s playing the right music (more on the rock side) at the right volume. The barman is youngish, yet not uncomfortably eager, and aside from the typical affair of Spanish beers, they are having a special on two Belgian beers at 3€ a bottle. Oh, the dreaded Duval strikes again. I’m mad about this bar: the black lacquer, with some red here and there, and some bare wood spots, chipped and cheap, remind me of the times before la marca Barna. We stick to the bar, try to ignore the TV and let the candle’s flame flicker in time with the world.

(Break-Fast)

Que Bò!

Carrer de la Fusteria 14

Summer is coming on, and with it the days of spending anywhere from 18 hours to 18 days without stopping in at home. I need a lot of food and drink and sun to keep it together. In the food department I need cheap and quick bites, and if you say “shawarma” to me, I may have to take a whack at you (or Berlin for that matter). Que Bo has you covered; it’s just a cheap sandwich joint on the Gótico side of the post office, and yes, it’s next to maybe 3 falafel places. Here’s the difference: no shawarma, no mystery meat on a spit. It is, however, Arab-run and cheap, very cheap. The sandwiches come on fresh bread with your choice of toppings, all served from the window facing the street, easily accessible for those on the go. There are excellent cheese varieties, and other rabbit-food selections that will satisfy even the hard-core cow/pig lover. They do, however, have burgers on the menu, as well as salmon, turkey and other tasty meaty treats. They’ve been dishing it out just over a year now and it’s still not stupid-expensive or a Starbucks, so get in your energy fix and sun worship in shawarma-free style.

(The Greats)

Cinemes Méliès

Villarroel 102

With the heat and the sun and downtown flats’ ability to retain that heat, ducking into some air-conditioning is a must. I prefer the cheap movies — and you can do much worse than Méliès. Films are 5€ or less, and aside from the few new releases, they mix in a slew of the greats from directors like John Ford, Stanley Kubrick and Charlie Chaplin. I get there for the first time a little early and while away the time looking at their fantastic photo collection of directors that adorns the hall — all the greats looming up there so much larger then life, just like their work. Time stops and I’m so moved, I’m gawking. We catch a new film, and the screen is big enough and everything’s spacious yet cozy. And did I mention the air-conditioning?